We have left the back waters of Kerala and after Ernakulam we have arrived in Kanur, we have been informed of a Theyyam ceremony... We approach the temple.

"Theyyam" is a religious ceremony where the poorest of the village is transformed into a God.

Or to be more explicit, he is ‘out’ and makes room for God to come.

The atmosphere is a little erratic.

 

People offer flowers... incenses...

‘God’ is painted red. His face is terrifying.

He's looking himself in a mirror for a while.

What does he see?!

He wears a giant ornament on his head.

He gets up from time to time and two people on either side help him pick up this heavy and bizarre crown.

His eyes are blurry.

But at the same time they are burning flames.

I don't think he's looking out.

He must be in deep trance.

I'm getting nearby.

I'm looking at him up close.

What's going on inside him?

What can God whisper to him?

What's he listening to?

What's he feeling?!

Priests with shaved heads and with thick bracelets on the legs share wishes after I throw a few rupees in a jar...

I am thinking of leaving...

I find it touristic although only two other westerners are at the ceremony...

I am leaving... But I still remember his eyes...

The eyes of the poorest who became God...

I still remember the eyes of nothing and everything.